As a friendly word of warning to those who decide to replace their rear differential bushings on a 2g DSM: don't.
Where would you get such an idea anyway, you ask? Well, if you're like a friend of mine, you notice that your rear diff is barely still attached because after enough hard launches, the stock rubber bushings have turned to jelly. So, you get the bright idea of replacing the stock bushings with something a little more sturdy, like solid aluminum. After all, you only want to replace broken parts once, right? (In my case, I opted for a special run of bushings made by Theo Aftonomos, because they had a steel sleeve for the retaining bolt, but the bushings that Dan sells above ought to do the job beautifully too.)
There's three identically-sized bushings fixing the rear differential to the rear subframe: the two obvious rear ones pressed into the subframe itself, and one on the passenger side toward the front of the differential, pressed into a removable bracket that bolts to the differential.
The bushing in the bracket is simple to replace: just unbolt the bracket, unbolt the front of the diff, and put the whole bracket in a press to press the old one out and the new one in. In my case, in true lazy fashion, I pressed the old bushing out with the new bushing. Worked like a champ. :-)
The part of this little exercise that causes problems is the two rear bushings. In my case, working on them in the car was possible because I've removed the trunk floorpan to make room for the fuel cell. If you aren't so lucky, you'll end up having to remove the rear subframe from the car completely: diff, axles, suspension, anything bolted to the rear subframe has to go. Fun stuff, honest.
Next up is actually removing the bushings. After an hour or two with a hammer, I finally came to the conclusion that the bushings just weren't going to move on their own. So, out came the holesaw to cut the rubber portion out. The passenger-side bushing drilled right out (mmm, nothing less pleasant in the world than the smell of burning rubber), but the driver's side bushing was a little bit different: it was filled with some kind of liquid or lubricant. As soon as the holesaw hit that, black steaming tar sprayed everywhere. Listen to Norm, always wear safety glasses, even if you think you're just cutting into rubber. ;-)
Once the rubber was out, the outer metal sleeve had to be extracted. After spending a bit of time with a punch and hammer, I did what I usually do: got frustrated and pulled out the sawzall. After cutting a nice slit in the sleeve, the punch tapped them both right out without any arguing.
Next up: since you can't put the rear subframe in a press (either because it's still on the car, like in my case, or because it's a flimsy piece of junk, if you actually took it off the car), you get out the deadblow hammer and spend the next bit of your life pounding those little bastards in. (Or, rig up a means of using a bolt and washer to press them in.)
Viola, you now have the ability to completely destroy your rear differential on a good launch! :-) There's a few jobs I've done on this car that I've very clearly said "Never again!" after completing, and this is one of them. A smart person would give up on the stock rear subframe entirely, and build their own with rigidity and weight savings in mind, but I thought this would be the easier approach. I'm man enough to admit when I'm wrong, and this is one of those times. ;-)